Shrimp paste, or kapi in Thai, is fermented crustacean concentrate that should smell aggressive but taste subtle. The confusion starts here: Western recipes call for a teaspoon mixed into curries, but Thai cooks use a quarter-teaspoon as a finishing condiment, dissolved in lime juice and scattered over a plate of khao muang (mixed rice and vegetables). The aroma is the point—it's meant to jolt the palate awake. From Fishing Nets to Funk In coastal Thailand, shrimp paste production hasn't changed in centuries. Small shrimp are fermented in salt for months, then pounded into a dense paste that darkens over time. Older, darker pastes command premium prices because the funk deepens—umami compounds develop that are scientifically comparable to aged soy sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano. "The smell means it's working. If it doesn't make you recoil slightly, it's been over-processed," explains Orawan, a 65-year-old paste vendor in Warorot Market. Try buying Vietnamese or Thai brands in Asian markets; avoid shelf-stable versions in tubes. Store it in a sealed jar and it will last years, only improving with age.